Choaties “Step Up Their Game”: Fashion Forward Redux Students Take Fall Fashion to New Level
By Loren Olson ’08
News Staff Reporter
Athletes are often entreated to “step up their game.” While there is no literal translation of this phrase common to all areas of life, you know the expression is in effect when you see it. Choate fashion has undergone just such an acceleration. To the credit of new students, or perhaps increasingly confident returners, there are more self-consciously stylish people on campus now than at any time in the past four years. The result is a diversification of looks, for, as many will cheerfully assert, one may be invested in appearance without following a particular “Fashion.” This is not to say Choate is about to turn into the East Village. Don’t fret; a few trends are keeping that rash of individuality at bay.
The men of Choate are preppy as ever, in khakis, chinos, and polo shirts. Arguably, this is more a function of dress code necessity than a lack of ingenuity. Creativity is alive and well, however, in the realm of “sweet shoes.” Particularly striking are some designs by Bathing Ape, the supposedly hip-hop brand that has taken New York (and apparently elsewhere) by couture-priced storm. Among other notable accessories, over-the-shoulder bags—or, dare I say, man purses—have replaced many backpacks. Perhaps to counterbalance this bag-toting rabble, a number of boys are redefining the word slob. On the paths, terrifically bad montages of stripes and colors have accosted my eyes, to be followed seconds later by an equally nauseating olfactory punch. Like the sonic boom of an airplane, the wave of Axe hits unexpectedly. Gentlemen: Cologne is for attracting women, not marking your preferred hunting grounds.
Curiously, the prey—whoops, women—are less traditionally preppy than in other seasons. Girls are favoring short shorts and long gauzy shirts in floral and semi-transparent varieties. The traditionalists "hold it down" with button downs, where blue seems to dominate. On the more casual side, the switch from crew neck to v-neck tee shirts (Gap, J.Crew and American Apparel all list them as top sellers) is very much in keeping with the fashion culture outside of Choate.
To accompany these lower necklines, long necklaces featuring a single large pendant (perhaps inspired by the Michael Kors fruits of last winter) have been seen all over campus, with everything from golden strawberries to white elephants dangling from them. For those who do not wish their necks to evoke Ja-Rule lyrics, minutia is the course of choice. Tiny gold or silver charms, such as a fleur-de-lis, perch atop a single colorful thread. Also, girls are layering ropey tie-ons, skinny bangles, and prayer beads (piety not included) instead of committing to one major bracelet. Subtlety is replacing statement in other areas as well: sophisticated drop styles have largely supplanted chandelier earrings.
Bag-wise, there is the usual loving marriage of large and leather. Goyard is getting new attention, to the dismay of many L.L. Bean knapsacks. Given that a bookbag receives more circulation than any other element of a girl's wardrobe, it is surprising how little attention is paid to it. An embroidered and sequined raffia sack, while inexpensive, certainly stands out in a sea of Vineyard Vines. In the world of couture, there is a perceptible switch from rectangular carry-alls to slouchier bags. This isn't good for people who not only wish to be stylish, but also to appear in class, thus necessitating the lugging of more than Daddy's platinum, a Razr, and a bottle of Voss.
As an alternative to necklaces, scarves are also getting big on the more avant garde. This reflects the push from such designers as Nicholas Ghesquière to wear things ethnic, fringed and otherwise. He described models wearing his current collection, a mix of blazers and garish button downs (did I mention parachute pants?) topped with large scarves as, “They're like girls on campus, no?” Expect this oracular utterance to manifest this winter, minus the skydiving gear. Possessing stylistic longevity and versatility of use, scarves are also a relatively inexpensive way to flash designer symbols. A clever thrift store find, however, would be more in keeping with the governing cultural aesthetic.
Although most fashion rags would have you think the skirt is going higher, only a select few on campus are reflecting this in their daily wear. Certainly, the higher waist highlights lithe young bodies, but is impractical for traversing large distances. More importantly, we are still recovering from the low-waisted movement of the late ’90s and early 2000s; teenage would-be fashionistas risk getting stranded in grandma land. The narrow legged pants are also resisting the upward pull. Labor Day be damned, white and gray jeans both avoid the school's ban on denim and keep their wearer safely within the fashionable fold. Yet the belt, in exciting new incarnations (gold clasps, antiques, studded, even garish pink patent leather) is indeed moving up.
Speaking of belted things, the day dress is here with a vengeance. St. John Blue is everywhere, but some interesting greens, reds and florals have made their presence known. The predominance is undoubtedly aided by most dresses' composition: thin straps and a cut low enough to reveal nature's bounty. In the current heat, this is a clever way to avoid being dress-coded. That is not to say that all shoulders must go exposed. Dresses are often covered by shrunken, thin-gauge cardigans in contrasting hues, generally pale and cashmere. This look can range from croquet-ready to artsy based on the labels and styles selected. Beaded and embroidered à la Catherine Malandrino, these little numbers can even upstage the offending dress.
I am glad to see that Prada's futuristic faux-fabrics have not shown up on campus. They resemble used bath rugs with aspirations of being a garment. Instead, stretch jersey is the material of choice. While some voluminous linen varieties look fresh, only jersey is clingy enough to appease body-conscious teenagers. At Choate, we would never be so irresponsible as to leave something to the imagination.
